Classic Restoration

Yes, you can drop your car off with a scheduled repair the day of or night before, park in the top parking lot, secure or remove your valuables, lock your car, complete the key drop envelope and place your keys in it, and place in key drop box next to the office.  Have your car here by 8AM for a timely repair start.

Yes, if your bill is paid, you can pick up your car after hours if you let us know ahead of time.  We can take pre-pay over the phone by credit card during business hours or we can email you a Square Invoice link you can pay by credit card as well,  3% will be added to your credit card payment to cover processing fees.

We offer SNAP Finance loans as an option for vehicle repairs,  nearly all applicants qualify regardless of credit as long as you are actively employed with $1,000 per month income (more details upon request).  Intended for short term, SNAP loans can get needed repairs done to your car so you can get back to work fast, although longer term payment and financing arrangements are available.  Snap Finance loans cover all mechanical and paint work, and the application process takes less than 5 minutes. Unfortunately, we do not offer other payment plans outside of SNAP Finance.  Please read our policy on "Payments" below.

Yes, however, there will NOT BE A WARRANTY ON THE PAINT.  Today's paint manufacturers require documentation of product and application done by our trained on sight technicians for warrantees to apply.

We recommmend a month before you take your car through the automated car wash, and 7 days before you hand wash.

No, the preliminary estimate is based on first visible damage on a vehicle, and is subject to additional damage found when parts are removed and broken or damaged pieces are discovered.  This additional damage is known as a "supplement" and quite common.  You will receive an itemized invoice or work performed, if it's not on the quote, it's not part of the repair.

Yes, if you have an insurance repair, you likely will have a deductible, that amount is based on the insurance coverage you pay, usually, the more you pay monthly, the less your deductible and vise versa, or assessed if you are a high risk driver.  Often, we see deductibles between $100-$2,500.  Your deductible is something you choose based on your monthly insurance payment amount.   An insurance company will take the deductible out of their check payment for damages and you pay that deductible difference to us for the repair.  

Full restorations are billed by time, parts, and materials, at the hourly body and paint labor rate of  $65 per performed hour to the date of the invoice, $42.50 paint material hourly rate (more for higher end toners or special effects), metal, fab, electrical and mechanical labor rate of $95 per performed hour.   Restorations are billed as labor is completed, AT NO TIME DO WE "PRE BILL" LABOR.   Restorations are billed in increments of 2 weeks as work is completed and itemized in detail on your payable invoice.  

First off, that's a complex question!  We don't have package prices for refinishes, all refinishes are based on industry assigned refinish times based on your vin# and panel size,  each make and model varies.  We offer Collision grade refinishes and Show car finishes and several in between.  We don't offer anything less than a collision grade finish, because it's our *name*  we leave behind on your vehicle.  There are  some cheaper customer request paint jobs we just won't do because of the risk of re-work and customer unmet expectations.  We can refer you to "that shop" if you wish, great for a quick vehicle flip, farm use vehicle, and cars you sell at auction, "you get what you pay for" paint jobs.  You want our paint refinish ballpark?  Be prepared to spend between $7,000 and $10,000 and up for basic remove and install, scuff and shoot refinishes over existing body work, with NO BODY, METAL OR FILLER REPAIR WORK. estimable by your VIN# for most vehicles 1970 and newer.  for most average vehicles WITH NO BODY OR METAL WORK AT ALL, OR MODIFICATIONS.  Some cost factors are...

• How nice of finish are you wanting?  A general\basic paint job which is standard, is going to have a collision grade finish, with low visible orange peel finish.  There's several available finish grades higher, the difference is hours in prep to get the panels FLAT through body work and hours in  what we call "Cut and Buff" which minimizes the orange peel texture and can ultimately offer a mirror finish, if desired.  
• Secondly, know that if possible, all trim comes off, molding and handles get removed, glass comes out, trim, headlights and bumpers come off, otherwise you risk paint peel.  Not all shops quote taking off trim in their quotes, and that might make a $1000+ difference between quotes.  Taking the trim off makes a HUGE difference in finish!  Not taking off the trim can ruin a great paint job.
• Thirdly, previous body work either gets checked or redone, rust gets addressed, scratches and chips get repaired, those are all additional body hours that are in additional to refinish.  Even spider cracks, rock chips and clear coat peel need to be body worked, sanded and filler, if you paint right over those, you'll see every flaw.
• Size of your vehicle matters, small compact cars will be less than full size trucks or vans, 2 door or 4, full size or mega cab...etc.
• Choice of paint color and toners required  to mix your paint color can cause additional paint cost charges to be added if you have any of the following:  highly "pearled" paint, tri-coat, two tone, special effects, transparent, or vivid\bright toner.  We mix all the paints direct from our paint bank and don't know until all the paint has been mixed and applied, what the cost of the paint costs will be.  Some of todays paints that have that high pearl or metallic sheen require multiple coats for that rich "depth" look, that take more coat and effect overall cost. Multiple coats use more material and time for our painter. Average paint material costs for a full paint job range anywhere from $700 to $2500 and up depending on what toners make up the end color.
• Are you changing paint color? Are we painting insides, undersides,  jams, etc...  Or are you wanting the undersides of the hood and trunk painted, the insides of door, tailgate, cab dusted, inside of bed, inside of trunk or engine compartment painted, are we removing the truck bed, doors or panels, etc.
• Old plastic body moldings or trim should be removed completed or replaced, not reused, say 15 years or older,  often damage if removed, we may recommend replacing or to eliminate, or we could leave it on you choose whether to paint over or tape off (not preferred).     Now is a great time to consider replacing rubber weather stripping around front and rear windows and door seals so the paint can go all the way under that peel point.  Part costs and labor to install apply.

These are just a few things to consider when asking us, "how much to paint my car?"  It'll a lot to think about and there's not just one answer.

We'd rather you NOT and here's why.  Just because your cheaper online part SAYS it fits doesn't mean it actually does, we find this time and time again to be true.  If parts are wrong or have poor fitment or have broken or cheap parts, it cost us valuable time and causes repair delays.  Sometimes cheaper plastic parts are manufactured with chemicals in them that "kick," or wrinkle when painted, which means additional paint time\re-work might be needed.  Our known suppliers never have that issue.  Our in house venders are selected with these all these things in mind.  Our known venders are able to get replacements faster and get credited back almost instantly with proven quality and fitment.   Return part delays cost us valuable floor shop space so in essence, time is money when you're waiting for replacement parts, storage costs may apply if we're waiting on your customer provided parts.  We would rather be in control of that turn around time by using our in house venders.

You may pay with:

*Cash  

*Credit card plus a 2.6% fee

*Wire transfer plus $30 bank fee

*Original issued insurance repair check.  If your repair is through insurance, we require the original check, if it's made out to you, the insured, you can sign the original check as a third party and submit that to us directly, we will endorse under your signature.  Eliminates double depositing that check.

PERSONAL CHECKS ARE NOT ACCEPTED for final payment, with the exception of prepay 2 weeks prior to the repair, and here's why. 

1) Over half of the checks we've ever accepted have had some delay of deposit or funding issue for one reason or another on an average repair cost of $2,000 and up. 

2) Banks put "holds" on deposited personal checks for several days, making personal check payment the slowest payment receipt available for business.  

3) Personal checks without proper funding can bounce well after the vehicle is delivered and cause significant inconvenience to get replaced. 

 4) Checks can easily bear a simple "clerical" error which null and voids the check, which now has to be replaced with a corrected check due to rejected signatures, dates, written numerical discrepancies, or endorsements.  

5) Lastly,   we cannot "hold" a check while the account holders awaits an anticipated deposit.  Our technicians wouldn't accept a rain check for their scheduled paycheck, nor would our venders.  Often times, we've already paid funds out for parts before your vehicle arrived for repair, so funds are needed in full and and with good integrity at the time of delivery.  

We understand this is an inconvenience and apologize for this.  

Read the quotes carefully, they may not be the same repair.  Differences could be new parts, vs. used parts, aftermarket parts, are they fixing all damage, just some of the damage, repairing or replacing the panel, are they painting the whole panel or a part of it, does the other quote include replacing all the decals and badges..etc.  

We estimate the best repair for the value of the vehicle.  IF it's more cost effective to repair a panel vs. replace it, we will do that.  Sometimes, new parts can't be sourced and have to be repaired. Sometimes used parts are the same as new parts, prices are out of our control and set by availability at the time part orders are placed.

We err on longer term repairs and preferred to repair the panel first and use less filler which can crack out over time if too much is used.  We will not cut corners or repair something for short term gain that causes long term consequences.